STEP 1: Make Way to the Valve Cover
Remove all the necessary parts including cables and wiring so that you'll get free access to the valve cover. Blast everything with compressed air to make sure everything is nice and clean which also includes the spark plug hole.
STEP 2: Remove Valve Cover
Remove all the necessary bolts holding the valve cover in place. Once that has been done, slowly pull it out making sure not to hit the cam timing gears. It's a bit difficult as most bikes have a tight fit but it can be done with a bit of patience and elbow grease. Don't forget to remove the head gasket as well.
STEP 3: Set the Pistons to Top Dead Centre (TDC)
Top dead centre (TDC) is basically the point in the combustion cycle where none of the cams are applying any sort of pressure on the valves. To do this, just rotate the engine by moving the crank. You will need to remove the inspection plugs in order to do so.
STEP 4: Check the Clearances
The valve clearance generally points to the gap between the cam (or rocker) and the valve bucket. In order for you to this successfully, you'll need some feeler gauges. Determine the clearance using trial and error by seeing which gauges can slip under the cam freely. Record the valve clearance for all valves on a piece of paper. If the clearances are within tolerance, then you're good to go. If not, proceed to the next few steps.
STEP 5 : Loosen the Timing Chain
If your valve clearances are outside of the preferred tolerances set by your bike's manufacturer, you'll need to change the shims on the valves. To remove the cams to access the buckets and shims, you'll need to loosen the timing chain. Most bikes run automatic cam-chain tensioners. Simply remove the covering bolt, and then use a screwdriver to unscrew the tensioner until you feel a click and the chain becomes loose.
STEP 6: Remove the Cam/s
This step requires some careful manoeuvres but with the right knowledge, anything can be done. To remove the camshafts, which is necessary to access the valves that are out of spec, the first step is to remove the journal holder. Undo the bolts in the order recommended by your manufacturer to prevent the holder from warping. Two dowel pins keep the cam and journal holder aligned, so make sure you take care to grab them (or they can easily fall down into the engine).
STEP 7: Get a Hold of Your Timing Chain
If there's only a need to adjust the valves under just one camshaft, simply hold the timing chain in place with a cable tie without having to remove the cams. if it requires you to remove the cams, use a screwdriver to make sure that it won't fall down into the engine's casing.
STEP 8: Remove Buckets
With great care, remove the buckets from the top of the valves using a pair of long-nosed pliers. Proceed with caution as to avoid any damages to the buckets. Having a magnet in your hand will make it easier to hold on to to avoid any drops. Place them together with the shims and note down on which valve they came from.
STEP 9: Measure Valve Clearance Shims
This step requires a set of vernier calipers as you need to measure the shims in order to adjust the valves accordingly. Make sure you have the recommended measurements according to your bike's manufacturer.
STEP 10: Get All Parts Reassembled Again
Once you've got the correct shims in place, it's time to reinstall the shims, buckets, cam, journal holder, timing chain and valve cover. Make sure you keep the timing chain taught and install it on the correct cam teeth, following your manufacturer's instructions, so you don't get the bike's timing wrong. Also use the recommended specs for tightening the journal holder.